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| With Nana in early 2001. |
In August 2006, in a dingy motel in Rockford, Illinois, I decided to dye my hair to cover the gray. In the gray-green light of the motel bathroom, I looked wan and sad in the mirror. I was sad – my siblings and parents and I had arrived the day before for my Nana’s funeral. My mother’s family is large and all seven siblings had gathered, plus spouses and many of my cousins. At short notice there were few rooms to be had so we were stuck with the unfortunate accommodations.
My Nana, Ruby Arizona Stevens, was born on Sand Mountain, Alabama in 1916. In 1961, she turned 45 just nine days before I was born. In October 2006, two months after her death, she would have turned 90, and nine days after that I would turn 45. The sweet synchronicity of this was only then dawning on me. I was exactly half Nana’s age; only halfway through my life. My Nana had led a full life as a spirited woman, a scrappy, smart, spunky gal. “I am only halfway done,” I thought. Looking at myself in the mirror, my graying hair looked dim and dull under the neon lights. “I have plenty of years to be gray.” Right then and there I decided I would dye it.
I called my husband back in San Francisco and told him “I’m going to dye my hair!” He immediately said, “You’re going to look suburban!”
I responded: “Nadia who belly dances – dyes her hair! Theresa, next door, with all the tattoos – dyes her hair!” I was trying to explain that virtually every woman between the ages of 40-65, even the hippest women we knew, was dying her hair. (Turns out I was wrong about Nadia who dyed her hair for fun, not gray coverage in the 90s, but my misunderstanding nonetheless helped make my point.)
I used to think about elite swimmers who in certain decades had to decide for themselves whether to take performance-enhancing drugs which were against both the rules and the distinction of elite competition or not to take performance-enhancing drugs and likely lose every race. What a lousy and unfair choice I thought. Hair-dying felt that way to me too. I thought if every woman my age is dying her hair and I don’t, I will automatically look like the oldest woman in the room. That doesn’t feel fair! I didn’t want to disappear, or not “rank.” This had been an existential conundrum for me as I had always been pretty self-accepting, or at least always strove to be.
My vanity had typically taken a back seat to other pursuits. Not that I wasn’t vain, but I consciously tried to overrule it, and when I couldn’t do that then I at least tried to hide it. I didn’t want to be caught looking at myself in a store window as I walked down the sidewalk, or putting on lipstick in a women’s restroom – I wasn’t that type of woman! I was carefree and oblivious or immune to beauty standards!
There were certain grooming practices I eschewed in the name of feminism or an anti-beauty stance. When I was 18, my boyfriend, Neal – my first serious and important boyfriend – told me someone he knew bleached the hair on her legs instead of shaving and that he liked how the sun glistened on her leg hairs. I had never heard of such a thing, but the idea, and his appreciation of it appealed to me. I began to bleach my leg hairs and did so for some time.
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| This is the actual brand I used in 1980!! |
When I arrived at my off-campus dorm room at California State University, Chico in 1984, my roommate Kristi had already set up her side of the room. A poster with three kittens under a baby blue blanket hung over her bed, a makeup mirror sat on her desk and her top desk drawer, I later found out, was full of makeup and beauty products. I unpacked my art and school supplies into my drawers and, as the leg hairs were overdue, I swung them up on the desk and was smearing bleaching cream on them when Kristi walked in with Laurie, her high school friend who would become my best friend in college. “When I first met you,” she later told me, “you were dying your leg hairs!”
In addition to getting a task done (bleaching the leg hairs) I was quite conscious of my desire to differentiate myself, especially from the hyper-feminine trappings of my new soon to be revealed roommate. I didn’t know I would be caught in the act – mid smear! - but it ultimately made a lasting impression. I admit this very pointed “I will not shave my legs” effort was posturing. Admitting this and thinking about it, my leg hair bleach and Kristi’s set of perfume bottles were similar. I suppose all beauty and anti-beauty efforts are acts of posturing; by definition to “behave in a way that is intended to impress or mislead others.”
As American women, we have more agency than most women around the world to decide the version of who we want to present to the world. But we also have to contend with media and societal pressures all around us. The problem with “choice” in a culture that projects specific beauty ideals at us 24 hours a day, is it can be difficult to discern which decisions are truly our own and which have been directly influenced by advertisers, celebrities, cultural norms, trends, and other pressures. Take the Brazilian waxing trend which removes all pubic hair and is especially common among women 30 and under. That’s an arbitrary beauty trend if ever there were one. If we’re really paying attention, it is easy to see that beauty ideals are both trends and arbitrary! The 70s and 80s were a much hairier time!
So, I flew home from Nana’s funeral and dyed my hair. At first, I left a streak of white running down the right side of my face (the same streak I let grow back as my first step of bringing back the gray) and later dyeing the whole thing. Did it have the intended consequence I wanted? Did I look younger? More beautiful? Did it shave off 10 years of age more easily than if I had become a gym frequenter? Did I “impress or mislead others”? Did I look good? Did I look like myself? Did I dye it longer than I should have? Not long enough? Did the dyed hair help me get jobs, get dates?
It’s all an experiment anyway – whether to participate in beauty regimens and to what degree, how we develop a personal style and how it evolves over time. Sometimes we go with the trends and sometimes we don’t and that’s ultimately up to each of us to decide. Which trends are you riding right now? And which ones are you bucking? Whether trendy or not, I hope your choices add up to absolutely you.